The size and quality of the stones involved are not the
only facters that determine the price and value of a piece
of jewelry. The type and amount of metal used and
manufacturing process also has a great affect on the
value.
Even costume or fashion jewelry is manufactured using
different metals and processes, which greatly affect
the price and value of the item. For example, let's
say you are looking for a replacement chain for a
pendant. You may find one for $2.95, and a similar
looking chain at another place for $6.95, and still
another similar looking chain at a third place for $12.
What is the difference? The chain for $2.95 is
probably a man made base metal with a micro thin gold
plating process over the base metal. This is the
quality of chain that typically won't last long.
The plating wears off quickly and the base metal can
react to the skin and cosmetics by turning black or
green and leave residue on your skin or clothes.
The chain for $6.95 may typically be a brass base
metal with a measurable layer of karat gold over
the base metal. This manufacturing process is
called gold overlay or gold filled. It is
typically 1/20 of a millimeter thick. This type
of chain is also susceptible to discoloration
from cosmetics and body acids, however it will
last much longer than the plated piece. The
chain for $12 typically could be made of a
sterling silver base metal with the gold overlay.
Another factor is how the chain is constructed.
Some chains are constructed in a fashion where
the individual links making up the chain are
simply crimped together. This means that the
link joints are not soldered and can be easily
pulled apart. Also, some chains dividual links
are made of hollow tubes instead of solid wire.
This makes the chain very light weight and the
hollow tube links can easily be dented and broken
even if they have soldered joints.
Keep in mind that no chain is indistructable. The
amount of wear will greatly affect the longevity
of any chain.
The same scenario holds true with karat gold jewelry.
The type and amount of metal used and the different
manufacturing processes determine the weight,
durability and value of the piece. In the United
States, jewelry made of precious metals such as
gold, silver, or platinum; are normally stamped
identifing the type and content of metal. American
manufacturers typically use 10K, 14K and 18K gold
purities. Pure gold is 24K, however in it's pure
form it is too soft to be practical for use in
jewelry manufacturing. Alloys such as nickel,
silver, zinc, copper, brass, are added to the gold
to give it durability. In the case of United States
gold standards, 10K gold means that there are 10
parts of pure gold and 14 parts of other metal
alloys. 14k gold has14 parts pure gold and 10
parts other metal alloys. Other metals commonly
used to create jewelry are Sterling Silver, and
Platinum. If you have ever had a piece of gold
jewelry turn dark (oxidize) or have an allergic
reaction to a piece of gold jewelry, it is probably
due to one or more of the alloys mixed in with
the gold. Different manufactures use their own
mix of alloys, so it is possible that you could
have a reaction to one piece of jewelry and no
reaction to a different item.