The size and quality of the stones involved are not the only facters that determine the price and value of a piece of jewelry. The type and amount of metal used and manufacturing process also has a great affect on the value.

Even costume or fashion jewelry is manufactured using different metals and processes, which greatly affect the price and value of the item. For example, let's say you are looking for a replacement chain for a pendant. You may find one for $2.95, and a similar looking chain at another place for $6.95, and still another similar looking chain at a third place for $12. What is the difference? The chain for $2.95 is probably a man made base metal with a micro thin gold plating process over the base metal. This is the quality of chain that typically won't last long. The plating wears off quickly and the base metal can react to the skin and cosmetics by turning black or green and leave residue on your skin or clothes. The chain for $6.95 may typically be a brass base metal with a measurable layer of karat gold over the base metal. This manufacturing process is called gold overlay or gold filled. It is typically 1/20 of a millimeter thick. This type of chain is also susceptible to discoloration from cosmetics and body acids, however it will last much longer than the plated piece. The chain for $12 typically could be made of a sterling silver base metal with the gold overlay.

Another factor is how the chain is constructed. Some chains are constructed in a fashion where the individual links making up the chain are simply crimped together. This means that the link joints are not soldered and can be easily pulled apart. Also, some chains dividual links are made of hollow tubes instead of solid wire. This makes the chain very light weight and the hollow tube links can easily be dented and broken even if they have soldered joints.

Keep in mind that no chain is indistructable. The amount of wear will greatly affect the longevity of any chain.

The same scenario holds true with karat gold jewelry. The type and amount of metal used and the different manufacturing processes determine the weight, durability and value of the piece. In the United States, jewelry made of precious metals such as gold, silver, or platinum; are normally stamped identifing the type and content of metal. American manufacturers typically use 10K, 14K and 18K gold purities. Pure gold is 24K, however in it's pure form it is too soft to be practical for use in jewelry manufacturing. Alloys such as nickel, silver, zinc, copper, brass, are added to the gold to give it durability. In the case of United States gold standards, 10K gold means that there are 10 parts of pure gold and 14 parts of other metal alloys. 14k gold has14 parts pure gold and 10 parts other metal alloys. Other metals commonly used to create jewelry are Sterling Silver, and Platinum. If you have ever had a piece of gold jewelry turn dark (oxidize) or have an allergic reaction to a piece of gold jewelry, it is probably due to one or more of the alloys mixed in with the gold. Different manufactures use their own mix of alloys, so it is possible that you could have a reaction to one piece of jewelry and no reaction to a different item.

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